Coated vs Uncoated Split Leather: Understanding the Tanning Process and Performance Differences

Leather, in all its luxurious and practical glory, is more complicated than many consumers realize. At Glory Store, where we sell premium leather jackets, we get asked about different types of leather, especially split leather, and what’s the difference between coated vs uncoated. If you’ve ever wondered if the tanning process, finish or material properties affect your leather product’s look, feel and durability you’re in the right place.

This article goes deep into everything you need to know about split leather, how it’s treated and how to choose the best one for your usage, preference and values like sustainability or price.

1. Introduction to Split Leather

Split leather is one of the most used types of leather, especially in fashion and upholstery. It comes from the lower layers of a hide, beneath the top-grain and full-grain leather.

When an animal hide is processed, it’s often split into layers. The top layer containing the grain becomes high-end materials like Genuine Leather, Top-Grain Leather and Full-Grain Leather. The remaining fibrous layer is what’s called split leather.

It lacks the natural grain pattern of the upper layers but split leather still has excellent flexibility, durability and versatility especially when treated or coated.

Benefits of Split Leather:

·         More affordable than full-grain or top-grain options

·         High availability in the market

·         Accepts surface treatments easily, like coatings and embossing

·         Perfect for fashion-forward pieces without the high price tag

At Glory Store, many of our fashion jackets use high-quality coated split leather for its style, functionality and price.

2. Split Leather Classification: Coated vs Uncoated

The biggest difference in split leather is coating. After tanning, split leather can be left uncoated or coated with various synthetic or polymer layers.

Coated Split Leather:

This involves applying a polyurethane (PU) or polyvinyl chloride (PVC) coating on the surface. The purpose is to:

·         Improve scratch resistance

·         Create a more even texture

·         Add color

·         Mimic top-grain leather

PU-coated split leather is used in fashion and upholstery because it gives a synthetic look with extra protection.

Uncoated Split Leather:

Uncoated versions keep the natural surface of the split layer. They’re:

·         More breathable

·         Softer to the touch

·         Less resistant to moisture or physical wear

Uncoated split leather is used for handmade, artisan goods or products where natural look matters more than durability.

3. Visual and Textural Characteristics

One of the biggest differences between coated and uncoated split leather is the look and feel.

Coated Leather:

·         Glossy or matte finish, depending on the application

·         Embossed textures to mimic grain

·         Color uniform surfaces thanks to pigmentation

·         Artificial grain patterns for consistency

Uncoated Leather:

·         Shows more natural imperfections

·         Softer texture, often with a suede finish

·         More organic and artisanal look

At Glory Store, our product designers usually choose coated split leather when we need a clean modern look. But when we’re making limited edition or heritage style jackets, we go for the raw, uncoated goodness.

4. Durability and Performance

Functionally, the type of finish coated or uncoated plays a huge role in how leather works over time.

Coated Split Leather:

·         Super durable thanks to synthetic layer

·         Waterproof and easy to clean

·         Resists UV damage and surface scratches

·         Good for high use environments like car interiors or fashion outerwear

Uncoated Split Leather:

·         More prone to moisture and stains

·         Ages better but requires more care

·         Good for low use items or luxury goods where patina adds character

Durability Tip: Jackets from Glory Store using coated split leather are great for people who want low maintenance leather that still turns heads.

5. Tanning Process Overview

No discussion of leather types is complete without talking about tanning the chemical and mechanical process that turns raw hides into leather.

The general split leather tanning process is:

1.      Soaking and liming to clean and open fibers

2.      Fleshing to remove excess fat and tissues

3.      Splitting to separate grain from the fibrous layer

4.      Tanning using either chrome salts or vegetable tannins

5.      Retanning and fatliquoring to adjust flexibility, softness and strength

Chrome vs Vegetable Tanning:

·         Chrome tanning is faster and results in more flexible leather.

·         Vegetable tanning gives thicker leather with natural look.

Both can be applied to split hides, but chrome tanning is more common for coated applications because of better chemical resistance.

6. Tanning Process for Coated Split Leather

When coating split leather, the tanning process is optimized to create a sticky surface for coatings.

Steps:

·         Chrome tanning is usually used for coated leathers

·         Retanning adjusts fiber tightness for a base

·         Fatliquoring keeps the hide flexible after finishing

·         Surface is buffed and sometimes filled for PU or PVC layers

Why:

·         Coating layers must stick to prevent peeling

·         Pre-tanning chemical composition affects absorption

·         Crosslinking agents can be added for coating durability

At Glory Store, our coated split leather jackets go through extra tanning to ensure the final finish is vibrant, strong and crack free for years.

7. Tanning Process for Uncoated Split Leather

Tanning uncoated split leather requires a more natural approach.

Goals:

·         Softer and breathable

·         Natural texture

·         Color retention during dyeing

Vegetable tanning is often used when a raw or rustic look is desired. The leather is left porous so it can develop patina over time.

Such leather:

·         Has more porosity for artisan use

·         Keeps the tactile feedback many leather purists love

·         Best used in low-contact areas or luxury leather goods

Uncoated split leather is for a niche audience who values organic looks over engineered performance.

8. Environmental and Sustainability Considerations

There’s a growing conversation around sustainable leather, and split leather especially coated is at the center of it.

Environmental Issues with Coated Leather:

·         PU and PVC coatings use synthetic chemicals

·         Chromium salts in tanning creates hazardous waste

·         Non-biodegradable finishes end up in landfills

Greener Options:

·         Water-based PU coatings reduce emissions

·         Vegetable tanning eliminates chromium entirely

·         Biodegradable polymers are on the rise

Glory Store is always looking at how to balance aesthetic, cost and eco-friendliness. We use chrome-free tanning in some of our collections and reduce synthetic coating where possible.

9. Cost, Pricing, and Market Trends

Split leather has a wide range based on finish and processing technique.

Coated Split Leather:

·         More cost effective to produce in bulk

·         Used in fast fashion, budget upholstery and affordable accessories

·         Can replicate premium look at a lower price

Uncoated Split Leather:

·         Requires more care

·         Smaller production runs

·         Suitable for premium and artisan markets

Market is seeing an increasing interest in hybrid materials like coated split leather with sustainable finishes or uncoated leathers tanned with organic agents.

10. Choosing the Right Type for Applications

Choosing between coated and uncoated split leather depends on application and your personal preference as a buyer. Each type of leather has its own strengths for different environments and use cases.

For example, if you’re looking for fashion jackets, coated split leather is the way to go. It has a stylish finish, resists daily wear and tear and is easy to maintain all while mimicking the look of premium materials. That’s why we use high grade coated split leather in many of our collections at Glory Store.

If you’re creating or buying artisan products like handcrafted wallets or bespoke accessories, uncoated split leather is the best choice. Its natural surface, suede-like texture and ability to develop a beautiful patina over time makes it a favorite for those who love raw authenticity and craftsmanship.

For more industrial or heavy use applications like car interiors or furniture upholstery coated split leather is the way to go. The synthetic topcoat gives it UV resistance, waterproofing and surface protection, so it’s perfect for long time use in high-traffic areas.

But for me, if you’re looking for purely decorative leather items maybe wall art, soft trims or accessories where softness and visual authenticity matters uncoated split leather is the winner. It has a rustic charm that’s hard to replicate especially for design focused applications.

In short coated split leather is good for function and durability so good for fashion and automotive use and uncoated split leather is good for artistic and artisanal use where natural beauty and texture matters. At Glory Store we offer both and help you choose the one that fits your lifestyle and values.

Final Thoughts

Now you know the difference between coated and uncoated split leather and how the tanning process affects their performance. Whether you want something sleek and protective or organic and handmade, there’s a split leather for you.

Check out our collection at Glory Store where we use Coated Split Leather to Full-Grain Leather depending on what makes the jacket pop and last.

Also read on our blog:

·         What is Genuine Leather?

·         Top-Grain vs Full-Grain Leather Explained

·         Corrected-Grain Leather: Pros and Cons